Cais do Sodré Riverfront: The River That Fed Lisbon
Why is it significant?
Walk out to the edge of the river beside the ferry terminal at Cais do Sodré and let the wind hit you. Ferries churn across to Cacilhas on the south bank, the great red suspension bridge hangs over the water to your right, and on the far shore the statue of Christ opens its arms over the river.
Key Facts
| Place | Cais do Sodré Riverfront: The River That Fed Lisbon |
|---|---|
| Address | Cais do Sodré, 1200 Lisboa, Portugal |
| Geo Coordinates | 38.70500, -9.14550 |
| Part of Walk | Ginjinha, Salt Cod and Custard Tarts: A Lisbon Food Walk from the Baixa to Cais do Sodré |
| Generated | Generated |
Walk out to the edge of the river beside the ferry terminal at Cais do Sodré and let the wind hit you. Ferries churn across to Cacilhas on the south bank, the great red suspension bridge hangs over the water to your right, and on the far shore the statue of Christ opens its arms over the river.
For centuries this waterfront was where Lisbon met its food. Fishing boats landed sardines; barges brought wine, wheat and vegetables from the south bank; ships came in with salt cod from the north and spices from the east. Across the water, Cacilhas still lives from the sea, with fish grills smoking along its quay.
Now look downriver, past the bridge. About six kilometres that way lies Belém, and in Belém stands the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, where the most famous Portuguese sweet of all was born. The monks, so the story goes, made custard tarts from the yolks left over from starching. When the liberal government closed the religious houses in 1834, the recipe passed into the hands of a local businessman, and in 1837 the shop of Pastéis de Belém opened next door. The recipe is said to be known to only a handful of people, and made in a locked room.
Everywhere else in Lisbon the tart is called pastel de nata, and it is the city's everyday fuel. Puff pastry so thin it shatters, a custard blistered almost black in a blazing oven, eaten warm, with cinnamon and powdered sugar if you like, standing at a counter with a bica. For many Lisboetas, a nata and a coffee is still the definition of a short break.
So think back over what you have tasted along the way. A cherry liqueur born on a church square, a French cake that outlived a monarchy, Roman fish sauce under a bank, Pessoa's coffee, the cod of the Grand Banks, the spices of India, the market of the varinas and the sailors' taverns. Every one of them arrived by water. Lisbon has always eaten what the river brought... and it still does. Find a bench, watch the ferries cross, and if you can, end your walk with something sweet.