Go'o Shrine and Hamaguri-gomon: Wild Boar Guardians and Samurai Rebellion
Why is it significant?
Arrive before the stone portal of Go'o Shrine, situated directly across Karasuma Avenue from the western gates of the Kyoto Imperial Palace park.
Key Facts
| Place | Go'o Shrine and Hamaguri-gomon: Wild Boar Guardians and Samurai Rebellion |
|---|---|
| Address | 399-2 Sakura-cho, Kamigyo Ward, Kyoto 602-8011, Japan |
| Geo Coordinates | 35.02320, 135.75950 |
| Part of Walk | Kyoto: Nijo Castle and the Imperial Palace, Shogun Fortresses and Court Traditions |
| Generated | Generated |
Arrive before the stone portal of Go'o Shrine, situated directly across Karasuma Avenue from the western gates of the Kyoto Imperial Palace park. Instead of the traditional stone lions or foxes seen elsewhere in Japan, notice the spirited statues flanking the entrance: two fierce wild boars carved from grey granite, poised with lowered tusks and curved bristling spines. Throughout the shrine courtyard, hundreds of ceramic, bronze, and stone boars crowd the altars, creating an endearing menagerie of protective forest beasts. Even the water purification basin is spouted by a handsome bronze boar with gleaming curved tusks.
This unique shrine venerates eighth-century court noble Wake no Kiyomaro, who bravely prevented an evil sorcerer-monk named Dokyo from usurping the imperial throne in seven sixty-nine. In revenge, Dokyo severed Kiyomaro's leg sinews and exiled him to Kyushu. According to legend, three hundred wild boars suddenly emerged from the mountain forest, guarding Kiyomaro's carriage from assassins and miraculously healing his paralyzed legs, making this shrine Kyoto's premier haven for leg and ankle health.
Cross Karasuma Avenue to Hamaguri-gomon, the western gate of the Imperial Palace. Look closely at the dark cedar timbers of the gateposts: deep jagged gouges and bullet holes are clearly visible in the wood. On August twentieth, eighteen sixty-four, the furious Kinmon Rebellion erupted here as samurai from the Choshu clan clashed in bloody combat against Tokugawa forces and Aizu samurai for control of the Emperor.
The name Hamaguri literally means clam gate, because the portal had remained firmly shut during peacetime like a closed clam shell, only springing open during fires and civil rebellion. Touching the rough bullet indentations in the cedar wood connects you directly to the violent birth of modern Japan.
Enter the vast crushed-gravel avenues of Kyoto Gyoen and walk northeast toward the imperial throne hall of Shishinden.