Historic Kafanas Tri Šešira and Dva Jelena

Why is it significant?

You stand before the sacred dual shrines of Belgrade bohemianism: Tri Šešira — Three Hats, and Dva Jelena — Two Deer.

Key Facts

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You stand before the sacred dual shrines of Belgrade bohemianism: Tri Šešira — Three Hats, and Dva Jelena — Two Deer. Established in 1864 and 1867 respectively, these are the oldest continually operating taverns on Skadarlija, having preserved their authentic nineteenth-century decor, wood-fired hearths, and legendary hospitality through wars, regime changes, and two global conflicts.

Tri Šešira originally occupied the workshop of a craftsman hatter; when the craftsman passed away, the new tavern keeper simply hung three metal hats above the entrance door as a sign, giving the tavern its immortal name. Dva Jelena, established three years later, features antler trophies and rustic timber booths where generations of musicians have performed old urban ballads on acoustic tamburicas.

The guestbooks of these two taverns read like a who's who of modern world history. Over the decades, their patrons have included Jimi Hendrix, Anatoly Karpov, George H. W. Bush, King Juan Carlos of Spain, Queen Elizabeth the Second, and legendary screen icons like Sophia Loren and Orson Welles, all of whom dined on traditional Serbian ćevapi, pljeskavica, and roasted peppers while being serenaded by Roma violinists.

Stepping into the warm, timber-framed dining rooms, surrounded by vintage copper cookware, faded sepia photographs, and flickering candlelight, immerses you in the living heartbeat of Balkan warmth. The spirited strumming of the acoustic orchestra and the clinking of rakija glasses celebrate an enduring lifestyle where friendship, song, and good food conquer all sorrows. These historic dining rooms continue to preserve the authentic flavours and musical traditions of old Belgrade, offering an unforgettable taste of Serbian culinary culture. This historic landmark stands as an enduring testament to the rich cultural heritage and resilience of the Serbian capital.

Walk southwest up Simina Street toward Studentski Trg and the grand Captain Miša's Mansion.