Old Tbilisi: Sulphur Baths of Abanotubani, Narikala Fortress, and Kala

From the warm springs of King Gorgasali through Leghvtakhevi to the Gabriadze Clock Tower

Tbilisi · 12 stops · 32 min audio · Generated October 2026

1. Mirzoev Sulphur Baths on Abano Street

Abano Street 8, 0105 Tbilisi, Georgia

Gaze across the row of low brick domes rising organically from the warm earth along historic Abano Street. These subterranean bathhouses sit directly atop natural thermal springs that have bubbled from subterranean fissures at constant temperatures between forty and forty-five degrees Celsius for centuries. According to royal chronicles, King Vakhtang Gorgasali discovered these steaming waters in the fifth century while hunting with his prized falcon in the dense woodlands along the river gorge. Deeply impressed by the healing warmth of the waters, the king ordered his capital moved here from ancient Mtskheta, bestowing the name Tbilisi from the Old Georgian word tbili, meaning warm.

Notice how the hemispherical domes are topped with delicate circular glass lanterns that ventilate the underground vaulted chambers while casting soft beams of natural daylight onto the steaming water. The masonry showcases traditional thin plinthite bricks laid in graceful concentric rings reminiscent of Persian Safavid engineering. For over fifteen hundred years, these bath complexes functioned as the beating heart of social life in the South Caucasus. Merchants traveling along the Great Silk Road gathered inside the hot chambers to negotiate trade agreements, poets recited verses to the gentle cadence of flowing water, and local families hosted elaborate celebrations.

In May 1829, thirty-year-old Russian poet Alexander Pushkin visited these domed halls during his Caucasian journey. Captivated by the skill of the local bath attendants known as mekise, Pushkin famously declared that never in his life had he encountered anything more luxurious than the Tiflis baths, noting they effortlessly surpassed the grandest hammams of Constantinople. The mekise rubbed guests with rough wool mittens and lathered them in mounds of foaming soap before immersing them in soothing mineral baths.

As twilight settles across the gorge, gentle plumes of mineral steam drift upward into the evening breeze, suffusing the stone street with a comforting mineral scent. The contrast between the earthy terracotta domes and the towering cliffs of Narikala creates an unforgettable panorama of ancient urban resilience. Stepping through this neighborhood immerses travelers in fifteen centuries of unbroken hospitality, where geothermal energy has nurtured community and well-being through turbulent eras.

Walk a few dozen paces west along the riverbed toward the dazzling tiled facade of the Chreli Abano bathhouse.
2. Chreli Abano (Orbeliani Blue Mosque Baths)

Abano Street 2, 0105 Tbilisi, Georgia

Pause before the magnificent tiled portal of Chreli Abano, often called the Variegated or Orbeliani Bathhouse, whose soaring pointed archway and corner minarets evoke the grand madrasas of Samarkand and Isfahan. Constructed in the first half of the nineteenth century by the princely Orbeliani family, this striking architectural landmark features brilliant lapis, turquoise, and cobalt glazed ceramic tiles arranged in intricate geometric arabesques. The exotic Eastern facade stands in delightful contrast to the modest red-brick domes scattered around it, highlighting the role of Tbilisi as a historic bridge between Eastern traditions and European cosmopolitan elegance.

Look closely at the marble plaque affixed beside the grand entrance arch, which commemorates Alexander Pushkin's legendary praise of the city's thermal establishments. In addition to Pushkin, renowned French novelist Alexandre Dumas père soaked in these vaulted mosaic chambers in 1858 during his celebrated Caucasian voyage. The author of The Three Musketeers dedicated an entire breathless chapter in his travel memoir to the rejuvenating artistry of the local mekise, declaring the experience a complete physical rebirth that restored his youthful vitality and creative energy.

During the nineteenth century, bath attendants at Chreli Abano were celebrated throughout the Russian Empire for their exceptional mastery of deep muscular massage and skin exfoliation. Using dense goat-hair mitts called kese and churning fragrant natural soap inside airy linen pillows, the attendants worked over weary caravan traders who had spent grueling weeks crossing the snowy Caucasian passes. The therapeutic mineral water, rich in hydrogen sulphide and essential minerals, quickly washed away fatigue, leaving bathers ready for bustling market negotiations.

In the late afternoon light, the turquoise tiles sparkle like faceted jewels against the rugged mountain background of the Sololaki ridge. Carved wooden balconies overhang the adjacent canyon, where the Tsavkisistskali stream babbles gently over polished basalt rocks. This colorful landmark captures the romantic soul of old Tiflis, transporting modern visitors into a timeless realm of Silk Road glamour, artistic inspiration, and shared communal warmth.

Follow the wooden footbridge leading into the lush, shaded canyon of the Leghvtakhevi gorge.
3. Leghvtakhevi Fig Gorge and Waterfall

Leghvtakhevi Gorge, 0105 Tbilisi, Georgia

Wander into the dramatic chasm of Leghvtakhevi, an enchanting natural ravine whose name literally translates to Fig Gorge in reference to the wild fig trees that have clung to these sheer rock ledges for centuries. At the head of this twisting rocky canyon, a sparkling natural waterfall tumbles over twenty-two meters down a vertical volcanic basalt cliff, feeding the rushing mountain waters of the Tsavkisistskali stream. It is extraordinary to discover an authentic alpine wilderness tucked directly behind the bustling urban streets of an ancient national capital.

Look upward at the towering canyon cliffs, where traditional residential homes perch daringly over the dizzying precipice. Their cantilevered wooden balconies, adorned with delicate lace-like fretwork, appear suspended between sky and stone, demonstrating traditional Georgian timber craftsmanship. In medieval times, this naturally fortified gorge formed part of the southern defensive moat of the Kala fortress. During enemy sieges, local defenders harnessed the river flow to replenish underground cisterns and cut off hostile infantry trying to scale the citadel walls.

For decades during the Soviet era, this magnificent canyon lay buried and forgotten beneath concrete road culverts and industrial storage depots. A comprehensive urban restoration program completed in 2012 uncovered the historic riverbed, removed thousands of tons of concrete rubble, and installed graceful wooden promenades along the stream. Archaeologists working on the project unearthed ancient tannery workshops, ceramic pipes, and medieval water mills dating back over seven hundred years.

Stand on the wooden viewing platform near the base of the waterfall, where cooling mist drifts through the sunbeams that pierce the narrow canyon canopy. The soothing roar of cascading water muffles all traces of modern traffic, creating an oasis of serenity in the heart of the metropolis. Here, geology, urban history, and botanical beauty converge into one of the most spellbinding natural sanctuaries in the South Caucasus.

Ascend the mountain trail winding steeply upward toward the ancient stone battlements of the Narikala Citadel.
4. Upper Citadel of Narikala Fortress

Narikala Ridge, 0105 Tbilisi, Georgia

Climb onto the wind-swept stone battlements of Narikala, the formidable mountain citadel that has guarded the gateway between Europe and Asia since antiquity. Established in the late fourth century as a Sasanian Persian military stronghold named Shuris-tsikhe, or the Envious Fortress, this citadel was progressively expanded by Umayyad Arab emirs, Georgian monarchs, and Safavid shahs. Perched strategically along the jagged Sololaki crest, the upper ramparts offered defenders an unassailable defensive vantage over the narrow Mtkvari River defile below.

Examine the varied stratigraphic masonry preserved in the ancient walls, where rounded river boulders, dressed sandstone ashlar, and flat Roman-style fired bricks merge into a resilient composite barrier. Deep embrasures and arrow loops pierce the parapets, engineered to provide overlapping defensive fields of fire across every foot of the rugged mountain approaches. In the inner courtyard stands the Church of Saint Nicholas, originally erected in the twelfth century during Queen Tamar's reign and reconstructed in 1997 atop its medieval foundations.

In 1827, a catastrophic powder magazine explosion shattered the upper battlements during a violent mountain thunderstorm. A direct lightning strike ignited hundreds of gunpowder barrels stored inside the ancient fortress church, triggering a thunderous blast that shook the entire Tiflis basin and permanently altered the skyline. Though never restored as an active military bastion, the romantic ruined towers became an enduring source of inspiration for Romantic painters and European travelers exploring the Caucasus.

From this lofty stone summit, the entire panorama of Old Tbilisi spreads out like an intricate living map. The terracotta domes of Abanotubani gleam in the valley, while the turquoise waters of the river flow beneath historic bridges toward the distant Caucasus peaks. Standing atop these ancient stones connects visitors with fifteen centuries of martial valor and civilizational perseverance.

Follow the winding stone path leading east along Botanical Street toward the distinctive brick minaret of the Juma Mosque.
5. Tbilisi Juma Mosque on Botanical Street

Botanical Street 32, 0105 Tbilisi, Georgia

Arrive before the distinctive octagonal brick minaret of the Juma Mosque, commanding the hillside above the historic sulphur bath quarter. Originally constructed by the Ottoman Turks in the early eighteenth century and rebuilt multiple times, the present structure was masterfully redesigned in 1895 in a striking neo-Islamic style featuring red and yellow brick patterns. This sacred house of worship stands as a profound worldwide symbol of interfaith tolerance, serving as one of the extremely rare sanctuaries where Sunni and Shia Muslims pray harmoniously side by side.

Examine the elegant decorative brickwork of the exterior walls, which seamlessly blends Ottoman Islamic motifs with regional Transcaucasian architectural elements. Inside the prayer hall, a modest black curtain historically divided the Sunni and Shia worshippers during devotional services. In 1996, the congregation collectively chose to remove this dividing drapery, establishing a unified mihrab where both traditions offer their daily prayers together in mutual brotherhood, making the mosque an inspiring sanctuary of peace.

The earlier Shia Blue Mosque, constructed on the opposite bank of the Mtkvari River in the sixteenth century by the Persian Shah Ismail, was tragically demolished in 1951 during Soviet urban redevelopment. Following that destruction, the Sunni community of the Juma Mosque opened their doors wide to their displaced Shia neighbors, welcoming them to share this sacred space permanently. This remarkable gesture of communal generosity reflects the deeply ingrained multicultural spirit that has defined Tiflis for well over a millennium.

From the tranquil terrace surrounding the minaret, enjoy an exceptional vantage point over the tumbling rooftops of the bath district and the rushing waters of the Mtkvari River below. The resonant call of the muezzin frequently mingles with the chimes of nearby Armenian and Georgian Orthodox church bells, creating a poignant auditory tapestry of tolerance. The Juma Mosque stands as a living testament to humanity's capacity for peaceful coexistence and spiritual fellowship.

Descend the stone hillside stairs toward the Armenian Cathedral of Saint George.
6. Armenian Cathedral of Saint George (Surb Gevorg)

Samghebro Street 5, 0105 Tbilisi, Georgia

Stand before the ancient stone portal of the Cathedral of Saint George, or Surb Gevorg, the spiritual and administrative mother church of the Armenian Apostolic Diocese in Georgia. Founded in 1251 by wealthy Armenian prince Umek of Karin, who fled the Mongol invasion of Erzurum to settle in cosmopolitan Tiflis, this venerable cross-domed temple has anchored the historical Kala neighborhood for over seven centuries. Its austere exterior walls of solid dressed stone conceal an interior of dazzling artistic brilliance that reflects the profound Armenian contribution to Caucasian civilization.

Step inside the sanctuary to marvel at the luminous eighteenth-century frescoes covering the walls and dome vaults. These vibrant religious compositions were painted by the legendary Hovnatanyan dynasty of court artists, who served Georgian monarchs and Persian shahs with equal distinction. The delicate hand-carved stone khachkars, or cross-stones, embedded in the exterior walls display mesmerizing lace-like knotwork and pomegranate motifs that date back to the medieval era.

In the peaceful churchyard garden rests the grave of Sayat-Nova, the immortal eighteenth-century ashugh, poet, and musician of the Caucasus. Born Harutyun Sayatyan, the multilingual bard composed timeless verses and played the kamancheh in Armenian, Georgian, Azerbaijani, and Persian, celebrating universal love and human dignity. Tragically, during the catastrophic Persian invasion of 1795 led by Agha Mohammad Khan, the elderly poet was martyred directly on the steps of this church after refusing to renounce his Christian faith.

Today, fragrant red roses consistently blanket Sayat-Nova's white marble headstone, placed there by grateful poets and admirers from across the globe. The quiet garden exudes an atmosphere of noble artistic serenity, where the songs of the legendary troubadour seem to echo through the whispering leaves of the pomegranate trees. Surb Gevorg stands as a sacred bridge uniting Armenian, Georgian, and regional cultures in shared reverence.

Continue through the winding alleyways of Kala toward the lively open expanse of Meidan Square.
7. Meidan Square and King Vakhtang Gorgasali Monument

Vakhtang Gorgasali Square, 0105 Tbilisi, Georgia

Step into the vibrant open space of Meidan Square, historically known as the Tatar Bazaar and the Great Bazaar of Tiflis. For centuries, this strategic crossroads at the bridgehead of the Mtkvari River functioned as the bustling economic hub of the entire South Caucasus. Merchants from Persia, the Ottoman Empire, Russia, India, and Venice converged here with long camel caravans to trade silks, spices, Caucasian carpets, artisanal weapons, and Kakhetian wines in open-air merchant stalls.

Look across the river toward the sheer rocky cliff of Metekhi, where the bronze equestrian monument of King Vakhtang Gorgasali gazes resolutely across the capital. Erected in 1967 by master sculptor Elguja Amashukeli, the majestic monarch sits astride his battle charger with his right hand raised in greeting and blessing. Beneath the square, historic vaulted brick cellars that once stored wine barrels and dry goods have been transformed into atmospheric underground craft shops, tasting rooms, and traditional Georgian restaurants.

Historical accounts describe the nineteenth-century Meidan as a deafening cauldron of sights, smells, and languages. Kinto water-sellers and street performers in wide velvet trousers danced through the crowds, balancing trays of sweets and wine decanters on their heads to amuse onlookers. Artisans hammered copper cauldrons, silversmiths engraved niello daggers, and carpet weavers displayed rich geometric patterns, turning the square into a daily theater of multicultural commerce.

Today, Meidan Square remains the energetic social heart of Old Tbilisi, filled with outdoor terraces, lively wine taverns, and wandering musicians. Standing here with the Metekhi cliff towering on one side and the fortress battlements of Narikala on the other, one feels the timeless commercial pulse of the Silk Road. This iconic crossroads continues to welcome travelers from around the world with irresistible warmth.

Walk north along the paved cobbles of Sioni Street toward the venerable dome of Sioni Cathedral.
8. Sioni Cathedral of the Dormition

Sioni Street 3, 0105 Tbilisi, Georgia

Step through the stone portal into the solemn courtyard of Sioni Cathedral of the Dormition, nestled in the historical core of Kala. Originally begun in the late sixth century and repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt through countless invasions, Sioni served as the official seat of the Catholicos-Patriarch of All Georgia until the consecration of Holy Trinity Cathedral in 2004. Its restrained yellow tuff facade with subtle cross reliefs reflects the noble classical simplicity characteristic of medieval Georgian ecclesiastical architecture.

Walk reverently toward the left side of the sanctuary to behold Georgia's most sacred national relic: the Grapevine Cross of Saint Nino. According to ancient tradition, the Virgin Mary appeared to Saint Nino in Cappadocia, presenting her with a cross formed from living grapevines to bring the light of the Gospel to the Kingdom of Iberia in the fourth century. Saint Nino bound the drooping branches with strands of her own hair, creating a uniquely curved crucifix that remains the supreme emblem of Georgian Orthodox identity.

Sioni Cathedral has witnessed some of the most dramatic events in the nation's history. In 1226, Khwarazmian invader Jalal al-Din ripped off the cathedral's dome and placed an icon of Christ on the bridge outside, ordering the citizens of Tbilisi to trample it underfoot. According to historical chronicles, over ten thousand citizens refused to desecrate the holy icon and were beheaded for their steadfast faith, becoming immortalized as the Ten Thousand Martyrs of Tbilisi.

Inside the dim cathedral, the flicker of countless beeswax candles illuminates dramatic nineteenth-century murals painted by Russian-German artist Grigory Gagarin. The haunting sound of ancient Georgian polyphonic chanting echoes through the stone vaults, its complex harmonic intervals transporting listeners across centuries of unbroken devotion. Sioni embodies the profound resilience, deep spiritual courage, and artistic majesty of the Georgian soul.

Stroll north along Sioni Street to arrive before the grand brick facade of the Artsruni Caravanserai.
9. Artsruni Caravanserai and Tbilisi History Museum

Sioni Street 8, 0105 Tbilisi, Georgia

Pause before the monumental facade of the Artsruni Caravanserai, locally celebrated as Karvasla, which anchors Sioni Street with grand mercantile majesty. Erected in the early nineteenth century atop medieval merchant foundations by the prominent Armenian noble Artsruni family, this enormous three-story complex served as a state-of-the-art commercial inn for Silk Road trade. Caravans arriving from Tabriz, Trabzon, and Baku drove their heavily laden pack camels directly into the cavernous central courtyard through towering vaulted arched carriage gateways.

Step into the vast enclosed inner courtyard, flanked by tiered galleries supported by robust stone pillars and vaulted brick arcades. Historically, the ground floor contained secure storage vaults and weighing stations for valuable spices, raw silk, and precious gems, while the upper balconies housed traveling merchants and trade consuls. Today, the building houses the Tbilisi History Museum, exhibiting over fifty thousand artifacts including archaeological pottery, traditional weapons, period photography, and scale dioramas of nineteenth-century Tiflis.

In 1850, this very caravanserai made cultural history by hosting the inaugural performance of the first modern Georgian theater company, directed by pioneering playwright Giorgi Eristavi. The staging of his satirical comedy The Lawsuit marked the birth of modern Georgian drama and sparked a passionate national renaissance in the performing arts. Audiences cheered from every tier of the caravanserai, celebrating the triumphant rebirth of their native language on the public stage.

Walking through the quiet brick-vaulted corridors today, one can almost hear the multilingual bargaining and resonant laughter that once echoed through these historic arches. The careful adaptive reuse of this commercial warehouse highlights Tbilisi's remarkable talent for celebrating heritage while fostering contemporary artistic life. Karvasla remains one of the finest surviving examples of Transcaucasian trade architecture.

Walk east down to the riverbank toward the futuristic glass canopy of the Bridge of Peace.
10. The Bridge of Peace and Erekle II Street

Erekle II Street, 0105 Tbilisi, Georgia

Arrive at the pedestrian nexus of Erekle II Street and the stunning Bridge of Peace, spanning the Mtkvari River with fluid architectural grace. Designed by acclaimed Italian architect Michele De Lucchi and inaugurated in May 2010, this 156-meter-long undulating steel-and-glass footbridge connects the ancient alleys of Kala with the modern lawns of Rike Park. Its flowing, marine-like canopy resembles a gentle wave or a marine creature rising gracefully from the rushing waters of the historic river.

Walk beneath the canopy to inspect the intricate steel bowstring truss system and thousands of embedded low-voltage LED lights. Created by French lighting designer Philippe Martinaud, the illumination system pulses with a sophisticated light show at dusk, spelling out the chemical elements of the human body in Morse code. The lighting design conveys a powerful philosophical message of universal human solidarity, peaceful coexistence, and shared planetary responsibility regardless of race or creed.

The bridge caused intense debate among architectural purists when first unveiled, with critics arguing that its ultra-modern glass shell clashed with the historic brick skyline of Old Tbilisi. However, it swiftly won the hearts of locals and international travelers alike, becoming one of the most photographed and beloved landmarks in modern Georgia. Today, it is celebrated worldwide as a striking physical metaphor for Georgia's confident leap from a turbulent past into an enlightened European future.

Standing at the midpoint of the bridge, enjoy an unparalleled vantage point over both banks of the capital. Downstream, ancient cliff-top churches and fortress battlements stand proud against the mountains, while the river current sparkles beneath your feet through glass deck panels. The Bridge of Peace offers an exhilarating bridge between ancient heritage and contemporary artistic daring.

Follow the pedestrian cobblestones of Shavteli Street north toward Anchiskhati Basilica and the Gabriadze Clock Tower.
11. Anchiskhati Basilica and Gabriadze Clock Tower

Shavteli Street 13-20, 0105 Tbilisi, Georgia

Arrive on charming, pedestrianized Shavteli Street, where two architectural masterworks separated by fifteen centuries stand in delightful dialogue. Anchiskhati Basilica of Saint Mary, erected in the early sixth century by King Dachi of Iberia, holds the venerable title of the oldest surviving church in Tbilisi. Directly across the cobblestone square rises the whimsical, leaning fairytale clock tower of the Gabriadze Marionette Theater, handcrafted in 2010 by celebrated Georgian artist and playwright Rezo Gabriadze.

Examine the Anchiskhati exterior, constructed from yellow tuff and river limestone with early Christian Chi-Rho reliefs above the rounded entrance arch. Then turn to the Gabriadze Clock Tower, constructed from hundreds of salvaged antique bricks and hand-painted ceramic tiles tilted at impossible angles. At the top of the hour, a mechanical angel emerges from a tiny shuttered balcony to strike a bronze bell, followed twice daily by a puppet performance titled The Circle of Life.

Anchiskhati took its name in the seventeenth century from the miraculous Icon of the Saviour from the Anchi Monastery, crafted in the tenth century by master metalsmith Beka Opizari and brought here for safekeeping from Ottoman invaders. Meanwhile, Rezo Gabriadze spent decades collecting architectural fragments from demolished buildings across Tbilisi to assemble his beloved theatrical tower. Gabriadze described his tilting masterpiece as an artistic plea to modern humans to slow their pace and rediscover the childlike wonder of storytelling.

The juxtaposition of sixth-century ecclesiastical solemnity and twenty-first-century theatrical whimsy creates an enchanting urban atmosphere found nowhere else on earth. Sycamore leaves rustle softly above cafe tables where visitors sip rich coffee while watching children delight in the mechanical angel's chime. This magical square captures the eternal creative spirit and deep cultural layering of Old Tbilisi.

Follow Shavteli Street north toward the historic fortress battlements along Baratashvili Avenue.
12. Baratashvili Fortress Wall and Berikaoba Sculpture

Baratashvili Street, 0105 Tbilisi, Georgia

Conclude your journey along the impressive medieval stone battlements lining Nikoloz Baratashvili Street, the ancient northern fortification line of Kala. Unearthed during major archaeological excavations in the late twentieth century, these thick stone ramparts and rounded bastions defended Tiflis against invaders from the north for over a thousand years. Beside the historic wall stands the delightful bronze sculpture group of Berikaoba, created in 1981 by sculptor Avtandil Monaselidze to celebrate Georgia's ancient masked spring carnival tradition.

Look at the lively bronze figures depicting dancers, acrobats, and masked performers celebrating the ancient fertility festival of Berikaoba. Rooted in pre-Christian pagan rituals, Berikaoba involved villagers donning animal skins and grotesque masks to dance through streets, mock oppressive rulers, and welcome the rebirth of spring. Along the wall, modern residential homes have been ingeniously integrated directly into the ancient masonry, their carved wooden verandas perched atop centuries-old fortress stones.

The avenue honors Nikoloz Baratashvili, the brilliant nineteenth-century Georgian Romantic poet who passed away tragically at the age of twenty-seven. His passionate, melancholic poems, such as Twilight on the Mtatsminda and Fate of Georgia, gave voice to the national yearning for freedom and spiritual transcendence during the Russian imperial era. Standing beside these ancient ramparts, one can easily imagine the young poet walking along the city edge, contemplating the turbulent destiny of his beloved homeland.

Sunlight illuminates the textured river stones and arched embrasures of the excavated wall, contrasting with the busy modern traffic flowing along the avenue. This dynamic intersection where ancient defense, romantic literature, and joyful folk masquerade meet provides the ideal finale to your journey through Old Tbilisi. You have experienced fifteen centuries of history, courage, and cultural genius that continue to animate Georgia's capital today.

Relax at the cafes near Baratashvili Bridge or continue your journey into modern central Tbilisi.