The High Line & Chelsea: Rails, Meatpacking & Floating Gardens

Walk thirty feet above Manhattan along a transformed industrial viaduct of art, history and native wildflowers

New York · 7 stops · 12 min audio · Generated

  1. 1. Gansevoort Plaza & The Meatpacking Cobblestones

    Gansevoort St & Washington St, New York, NY 10014

    Stand right here on the Belgian cobblestones of Gansevoort Plaza and look up at the heavy steel underbelly of the elevated viaduct crossing overhead. You are at the southern threshold of the High Line in Manhattan's historic Meatpacking District. In the nineteen hundreds, over two hundred wholesale slaughterhouses and meatpacking plants operated on these streets, their butchers packing beef, pork, and poultry in sawdust-strewn stalls cooled by ammonia pipes.

    Why was this elevated steel viaduct built in the first place? In the nineteenth century, freight trains ran directly down the middle of Tenth Avenue at street level, causing so many horrific collisions with horse carriages and pedestrians that Tenth Avenue became known across America as Death Avenue. To protect citizens, the railway hired the West Side Cowboys: men on horseback who rode ahead of trains waving red warning flags.

    Finally, in nineteen thirty-four, the city and railroad completed the West Side Elevated Line, elevating freight thirty feet into the air so trains could roll straight into factory warehouses without touching street pavement. Look to your left at the striking asymmetrical steel-and-glass facade of the Whitney Museum of American Art, designed by Renzo Piano and opened in twenty fifteen.

    When container shipping and highway trucking made urban rail obsolete, the last train carrying frozen turkeys rumbled down these tracks in nineteen eighty. The viaduct sat abandoned, slowly taken over by windblown dandelion seeds, until two visionary neighborhood residents fought to turn it into the world's most famous elevated park.

  2. 2. The Tiffany Overlook: Where Rails Sliced into Factories

    The High Line at Gansevoort St, New York, NY 10014

    Walk up the stairway onto the timber boardwalk of the Tiffany and Company Foundation Overlook and gaze southward down the canyon of Gansevoort Street. Feel the open breeze blowing off the Hudson River just two blocks west. You are standing thirty feet in the air at the southern terminus of the preserved park.

    Did the railway originally end right here? No: in nineteen thirty-four, the tracks continued five blocks farther south all the way to the Saint John's Park freight terminal on Spring Street. But in nineteen sixty, the southern section was demolished as highway trucking grew, slicing through the steel bridge and leaving this dramatic cliff-edge overlook.

    Look down at the wooden decking beneath your sneakers: notice how the planks taper into concrete combs that allow self-seeding prairie grasses and birch trees to sprout directly between the old steel rails. Landscape architect James Corner and Dutch plantsman Piet Oudolf designed these beds using wild perennials that mirror the hardy, self-sown ecosystem that grew wild on the derelict tracks during thirty years of abandonment.

    As yellow taxi cabs hum below on the asphalt, look at the weathered steel girders stamped with the names of long-defunct Pennsylvania iron foundries from the nineteen thirties. This overlook proves that urban ruin can be transformed into living poetry.

  3. 3. Tenth Avenue Square & Sunken Overlook: Street Traffic as Theater

    The High Line at 17th St & 10th Ave, New York, NY 10011

    Take a seat on the stepped wooden benches of the Tenth Avenue Square and look through the massive glass picture window directly down into the roaring avenue beneath your feet. This sunken wooden amphitheater at Seventeenth Street is one of the most brilliant urban design interventions in the entire park.

    What was this section of the viaduct during its freight days? In the nineteen thirties, massive steam locomotives carrying refrigerated boxcars roared across this wide span. When the park was designed in the two thousands, architects Diller Scofidio and Renfro decided to peel away the steel deck and cut a sunken opening, transforming the ordinary chaos of yellow taxis and delivery vans below into a mesmerizing, live theatrical performance.

    Look around at the steel-framed canopy overhead: it preserves the rugged industrial silhouette of the original bridge trusses. Across the street stands the undulating glass facade of Frank Gehry's IAC Building, resembling white sailing ships billowing in the wind, alongside Jean Nouvel's fractured prism tower with hundreds of tilted glass panes reflecting the evening sunset.

    Sit here for a few minutes in silence: visitors from around the world gather on these amphitheater steps not to look at paintings, but to watch the hypnotic choreography of New York City traffic flowing endlessly into the north.

  4. 4. Chelsea Market & The Nabisco Factory: The Birth of the Oreo

    75 9th Ave, New York, NY 10011

    Look to your right as the High Line passes directly through the red-brick walls of the sprawling Chelsea Market complex at Fifteenth Street. Notice how the building arches right over the viaduct, with massive steel lintels and heavy industrial brickwork. In the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, this was the worldwide headquarters of the National Biscuit Company, known today as Nabisco.

    Did you know that the world's most famous sandwich cookie was born inside these walls? In nineteen twelve, Nabisco bakers invented the Oreo biscuit right here, consisting of two chocolate embossed wafers filled with sweet vanilla cream, alongside Animal Crackers and Saltines.

    The relationship between Nabisco and the High Line was unprecedented. When the elevated rail line was constructed in nineteen thirty-four, the railway punched directly through the third floor of the bakery! Freight trains pulled straight inside the building to unload boxcars of white flour and sugar directly into baking vats, while outgoing trains were loaded with millions of fresh cookies straight off the cooling conveyor belts without ever touching rain or dust.

    In the nineteen nineties, the abandoned factory was reborn as Chelsea Market, one of the world's greatest indoor food halls, while upper floors now house tech giants like Google. As you walk across the viaduct, the rich aroma of artisanal bakeries drifts upward, a delicious echo of the baking empire that built these brick arches.

  5. 5. The 23rd Street Lawn & Chelsea Art District: The Green Meadow

    The High Line at W 23rd St, New York, NY 10011

    Step onto the open wooden sundeck beside the elevated Kentucky bluegrass meadow at Twenty-Third Street. This lush lawn, cantilevering dramatically over the west side of the viaduct, is the only patch of open green turf on the entire High Line where visitors can kick off their shoes and sit directly on the grass.

    What makes this neighborhood below so legendary in global culture? You are floating directly above West Chelsea, the uncontested art capital of the world. In the nineteen nineties, as rent soared in SoHo, world-class art dealers and gallerists like Larry Gagosian, David Zwirner, and Hauser and Wirth took over the vast column-free garages and former taxi depots along Twentieth through Twenty-Sixth Streets.

    Today, over three hundred contemporary art galleries cluster within five blocks of this lawn. The High Line itself acts as an open-air museum, curating rotating monumental outdoor sculptures, billboards, and audio installations that dialogue with the brick facades and luxury penthouses.

    Look north towards the sculptural glass ribbons of Zaha Hadid's residential building at Twenty-Eighth Street: its seamless hand-rubbed stainless steel curves wrap around the park like liquid silver. Here, the raw steel history of New York's rail past meets the highest architectural luxury of the twenty-first century.

  6. 6. The Flyover & 26th Street Viewing Spur: The Treetop Canopy

    The High Line between 25th & 27th St, New York, NY 10001

    Walk up the gentle ramp of the High Line Flyover between Twenty-Fifth and Twenty-Seventh Streets. Feel how the metal grated walkway lifts you eight feet above the historic rail deck, suspending you directly within a dense green canopy of sumac, sassafras, and serviceberry trees.

    Why did the landscape architects build a walkway above the walkway? In this narrow two-block section, the viaduct narrows considerably. Rather than paving over the ground for pedestrian crowds, designers elevated the walking path on slender steel pilotis, allowing a continuous forest floor of ferns, mosses, and woodland groundcover to thrive uninterrupted underneath.

    Look to your right at the Twenty-Sixth Street Viewing Spur. It preserves an original industrial rail siding where trains once parked to load raw goods into local factories. Designers framed the historic view with an enormous rectangular steel frame that mimics a giant billboard, but instead of advertising consumer products, it frames the simple, breathtaking architecture of the Manhattan skyline.

    Walk slowly and look down through the metal mesh beneath your feet: you can see delicate white flowering dogwoods and woodland perennials thriving in the shade, completely detached from the frantic asphalt city below.

  7. 7. The Spur & Coach Passage: The Final Railroad Frontier

    The High Line at 30th St & 10th Ave, New York, NY 10001

    Step out onto the broad circular plaza of The Spur at Thirtieth Street and Tenth Avenue, passing through the sheltered tunnel of the Coach Passage. You have reached the final piece of the original High Line viaduct to be opened to the public, completed in twenty nineteen.

    Look around at the surrounding towering skyscrapers of Hudson Yards: you are standing above the largest private real estate development in American history, built entirely on massive steel platforms over thirty active commuter rail tracks of the Long Island Rail Road.

    In the center of this plaza stands the High Line Plinth. Inspired by the Fourth Plinth in London's Trafalgar Square, this is New York's premiere dedicated site for monumental contemporary public art commissions, hosting massive works by artists like Simone Leigh and Pamela Rosenkranz that challenge history and race.

    Look west where the viaduct curves toward the Hudson River around the West Side Rail Yards: in nineteen ninety-nine, Mayor Rudy Giuliani signed a demolition order to tear this entire rail line down with wrecking balls. Two neighborhood residents, Robert Hammond and Joshua David, met at a community board meeting and founded Friends of the High Line, saving this steel ribbon from oblivion. Today, it stands as an enduring global monument to the power of grassroots civic imagination.